Image taken on 2009-04-10 19:49:56 by Kevin H..

The Esencia Playa del Carmon, Quinta Roo Mexico is an amazingly beautiful, and very stylish place to have a vacation, and when you compare it to some of the mega resorts of the Mayan Riviera, quite frankly there is no comparison.

This place is near perfection, where you will be not only pampered but feel appreciated by the outstanding staff at the resort.

This definitely one of the very best places to stay in the Mexican Caribbean with your children, as there are house butlers, nannies, lots of activities, next to a stunning beach.

Having got the general description of the Esencia out of the way, what about the rooms, the food, the service, the price, because that either makes or breaks a vacation.

Our vacation was spent staying in a garden suite, and some of things that still spring to mind very quickly was the sheer size of the plasma TV with surround sound, the vast and extremely comfortable bed, and the pillows were soft, with bedside controls that meant you could enjoy the view without leaving your bed in the morning!!

The airconditioning didn’t freeze us, but we didn’t use it that much preferring fans, and natural breezes.

My wife places huge importance on the bathrooms, towels, showers, and all that sort of thing, and she was totally bowled over by the two rain shower heads in a separate shower room. The towels and the separate WC also met with her approval!!

I like to relax at the end of the day, and in the morning, so I particularly appreciated the large comfortable terrace, and before I forget, my wife really likes lots of hanging space, and there were huge closets, and plenty of hangers.

Food is a very important feature of a vacation for us, and we were not disappointed at the Esencia. For a start the rate included breakfast, and this wasn’t any ordinary hotel buffet breakfast, because you ordered it from the extensive menu, and it was delivered in some style, prior to that there was a coffee service straight to our suite, with nice pastries, at any time we requested. It is nice to sit on your terrace and devour it.

Dinner was in the garden restaurant, which only opened in the evening, and the menu had considerable choices, including about six desserts, with a lot of fish, which suited us. The wine list was good but expensive.

I can’t say the hotel was at all busy when we were there, so it wasn’t a problem to get a sun lounger on the beach, and they were padded too!! There was also prompt drinks service on the beach as well, and as far as the beach itself is concerned it has to be close to one of my favourites.

White sand, incredibly clear water in all of the shades of blue green and turquoise that you only get on a tropical vacation. There are a few rocks, but all in all it was good for swimming in right next to the hotel.

By the way the hotel is right next to El Cielo, which serves some of the best seafood and margaritas on the coast.

Many things about Esencia are special, but the service is really very good indeed. The staff seemed to have the ability to be there, but totally unobtrusive. We particularly liked the fact that straightaway they knew us by name, we never had to wait to sign anything, and our ‘running’ bill appeared magically in our room at regular intervals to allow us to see what we had spent.

There was definitely an attention to detail which helped make our vacation at the Esencia very special.

Mexico is one of the most admired places around the world. Globetrotters who are travel enthusiasts have a soft corner for Mexican cuisine and vacations. Mexico holidays comprise of attractions, which are enough to attract beach lovers and food connoisseurs across the world. There are Caribbean beaches, which are spread around Cancun. Then you can visit Chichen Itza, which is a wonderful archaeological site consisting of Mayan ruins. If you have a deep interest in diving, then Acapulco is another place to indulge in. People having an inclination towards handicrafts must visit Oaxaca.

The Mexico holidays have a range of attractions, which are enough to leave the traveller spell bound. The cuisine of Mexico is also widely loved by food aficionados across the world. It does not need an introduction. The tortillas, seafood and desserts are loved by the locals and foreign travellers. The use of avocado, chillies, kidney beans and chocolate gives this cuisine a tasteful blend. The beaches around Mexico sees a lot of tourist rush those who like to engross into water sports. Hardcore sea enthusiasts can holiday around Yucatan peninsula and frequent beaches.

The vacations are very important in everyone’s life. They are a method to rejuvenate and get back to energised self through pleasure activities. The Mexico holidays will make you come across several marvellous architectures, both from the new and the old world. The exploration of Zocalo, largest public square is something that fills tourists with exhilaration. There you will find Aztec ruins and presidential palace. The eco-reserves and theme parks are among other major attractions. Those who love the rugged terrains, Mexico’s Sierra Tarahumara are one of the deepest canyons, ready to give a thrill.

The Mexico Holidays are splendid, which are full of adventure and thrill. The temple of Quetzalcoatl, along with sun and moon pyramid is worth seeing. These are the vacations that will rejuvenate you after a hectic life you live every day.

Alvin Starkman  M.A., LL.B.

 

If you absorb only a minute fraction of what Nora’s grandmother taught her about Oaxacan cookery over the course of about four decades, you’ll leave with not only a fount of knowledge about ingredients and techniques, but also a profound understanding of the history and geographical variation of all that’s Oaxacan cuisine today … and of course completely satiated by the end of your gourmet meal.

 

Oaxacan Nora Valencia enraptures her students with informative stories and humorous anecdotes peppered throughout her class about her abuelita’s insights into food preparation and ingredient combinations.  But she also confesses, while walking from the market, that hers was a long journey in arriving at a “classroom” environment upwards of ten years ago:  “What my grandmother and mother taught me wasn’t nearly enough.  My coming of age as an instructor required a lot of research and travel, in the nature of sociological and anthropological investigation, some chemistry and physics, and even botany.  And I always tried to get my hands on as many old books as possible about Latin American foodstuffs, and wherever possible concerning Mexican and Oaxacan plants and herbs and pre-Hispanic recipes.  There’s one book in particular I still need, called ‘Conquista y Comida’ … maybe you’ll come across it at a local book fare and let me know.”

 

The lesson day begins at 9:30, with students meeting and chatting briefly with one another and Nora, in a relaxed informal setting at her B & B, La Casa de Mis Recuerdos.  At about 10, taxis arrive to take all to Mercado de La Merced, one of, if not the most popular of the daily markets in downtown Oaxaca … for Oaxacans. About an hour is spent in the market, walking from stall to stall, where you learn, variously, about  indigenous origins and history, and current uses, of dried and fresh chiles, nuts, tomatoes, cheeses, breads, an abundance of herbs, and much more. You come away with an appreciation of how Oaxacan cuisine has arrived in the 21st century, as a result of a melding of the use of pre-Hispanic produce and meats, with imports first brought over from Spain during the conquest period.

 

Nora imparts an understanding of the difference between produce found in the permanent market stalls (most often purchased by the vendors from growers or wholesalers with large operations), and that sold by mainly women sitting on the ground who have grown the fruits, vegetables and herbs in their own towns and villages:  “We now use the term organic, for what we have traditionally referred to as criollo, which is what these ladies sell.  But some of the large stalls also have criollo produce, so watch for it.”

 

Nora reveals both here and several times later on in the kitchen setting, what ingredients, more easily accessed back home, can be substituted for what she buys in the market such as local varieties of green and red tomatoes, specific herbs, chiles, and even masa:  “If you can only buy packaged Maseca brand corn flour in Oregon, and you’re making tamales, then add a bit of cornmeal to give it the proper texture.  Feel the difference between the two types of masa we find here in the market, one for tortillas and the other for tamales. And you may already know, we use a lot a hoja santa in our recipes, and it’s only available in some states, such as Florida, so if you can’t find it, try using … .”

 

Rather than purchase everything at this market visit, Nora has already purchased most the day before, and what she does buy during this brief tour she leaves at each stall and picks up when we’re ready to depart.  “Now I’m going back to some of the puestos to pick up what we bought, so let’s meet out front in 10 – 15 minutes.  Meanwhile you can go and buy some of those rarer dried chiles to take home, that spicy paste that I told you I like to keep in my purse when visiting the U.S., and maybe even some gusano worms that we’ll be using to make a salsa later on.  You can buy a string of 100 and wear it as a necklace for customs.”  Nora passes on invaluable advice about which ingredients you should be able to take over the border, and what freezes well (i.e. quesillo and chapulines — Oaxacan string cheese and grasshoppers).

 

We walk to her nearby home on a quaint cobblestone road, where the balance of the class will unfold.  We’ll spend the rest of the morning and afternoon in her traditional, painted-tile (talavera) kitchen with center island, and her dining and sitting rooms opening onto a courtyard lushly landscaped with trees, vines and flowering shrubs.  A feeling of comfort envelopes, like you’re at home, because in a sense you are, made to feel as welcomed as possible.  With only one assistant, Minerva, I marvel at the intense work that has gone into the pre-preparation of some dishes, and more importantly how Nora must be “on” 100% of the time, and attentive to each of the ten apprentices, ranging in age from early twenties to late sixties, for upwards of six hours.

 

It’s effectively all Nora, teaching, directing, reassuring, reminding, and correcting.  With mainly novices in this class this day, making dessert tamales, one of the two most complex recipes of the day, isn’t as easy as simply mixing up some dough with pineapple chunks and wrapping it in corn husk.  Three mixtures are prepared, placed into the husks, and then folded in a most gingerly fashion:  “Sorry, but this will have to be another patchwork, so we’ll combine two into one, or better yet, how about just using an extra husk to hold it all together.”  There’s the masa mixture, the coconut / milk concoction,  pineapple / sugar / cinnamon fusion, plus raisins to boot.  “Now see that I’m not spilling out the water from boiling the pineapple, because I can use it another time instead of just water, to make a fresh fruit juice (agua fresca).  It’s already sweet and flavorful.”

 

Where a component has been prepared prior to our arrival, Nora instructs how it’s been made, such as with the chicken and beef stocks.  When there are optional ingredients, Nora not only tells us what we can substitute based on personal preferences, but also explains regional variations.  And while we’re preparing mole amarillo, she educates a propos the fallacy of there being seven moles:  “Some think of siete moles because we at times refer to seven regions in the state.  But if you stop and consider, in Puerto Escondido for example, where shrimp are often used to create stock and as the protein in amarillo, shouldn’t we consider this mole a class or variety onto itself?”

 

As we’re preparing our mole amarillo, we’re tasting as the flavor subtly changes, adding hoja santa, the spice mixture, the masa which, it’s explained, absorbs and reduces some of the heat.  A fiery salsa is almost magically converted into a complex mole, a creation one is hard-pressed to encounter when commercially prepared.  “How spicy does everyone like to eat? You know I don’t promise anything because peppers are like lottery tickets:  you never know. I used to say to my grandmother, let me measure, but she would say no, use your eyes, your nose, and your mouth to measure.”  Nora continues that the same ingredient is often different in intensity, flavor, and how it absorbs, as for example with chicken … it’s not always the same.

 

While she emphasizes historical and regional contextualization in the use of ingredients, and the resultant variation in recipes, Nora also ensures that technique is appropriately stressed in class. She draws participants into hands-on learning, encouraging each to contribute to the creation of every plate.

 

Printed recipe sheets are distributed, but not until the meal has been served.  Nora opines that it’s better for students to first watch, listen, participate, and ask questions, rather than read and make notes.  As the meal concludes, she then reviews the recipes and fields questions regarding any doubts. 

 

By about 2 p.m. we’re ready to sample some mezcal, and then sit down and indulge in  our creations:

 

1)      An appetizer of fresh squash blossoms stuffed with a mixture of requesón cheese,

      ham, onion and nuts;

2)      Consumé of hoja santa, with squash blossom, quesillo, garlic, etc.;

3)      Rice á la mint;

4)      Mole amarillo with chicken and steamed vegetables;

5)      A garnish of sliced onion in a lime juice vinaigrette;

6)      Salsa of green tomato with gusanos de maguey;

7)      Fresh fruit juice of orange, lime and cucumber;

8)      Dessert tamales with pineapple, coconut and raisin.

 

Even Nora’s grandmother would be hard-pressed to produce such a diverse, delectable and complete comida.

 

Cocina con Nora is located at Aldama 205, Barrio de Jalatlaco, in downtown Oaxaca.  Maximum class size is 10.   You can register for Nora’s classes by calling (951) 515-5645 or e-mailing her at: misrecue@hotmail.com.

When analysing gluten free markets, the main question that people with celiac disease will ask is “what’s in it for me”? Having an understanding of markets such as Australia and America is fundamental to understanding how many more suppliers are likely to enter the market and so drive competition and choice. If you are celiac or a gluten free supplier, these are two words that you hold dear to your heart: choice and low price. To understand how close we are to a mature market (when maximum competition drives prices down) it is useful to compare several countries and communities within these.

This analysis is based on Google search terms (for the month of Dec 08) used in the gluten free market. As Google usually has a large market share in most countries and also has specific country domains, this provides a perfect baseline to compare gluten free markets across the world.

This article is set out in the following format:

Identification Of the Four Gluten Free Market Tiers

Introduction Comparison Of Communities By Their Market Tiers

The following are available in the full article on our website

FULL ANALYSIS PER COMMUNITY

Statistic Tables for each community

GFP MATRIX: Identification Of the Four Gluten Free Market Tiers

So far four market levels (TIERS) have been identified.

A fully matured gluten free market has not been reached yet due to the low diagnosis of celiac disease even in developed countries. So far, analysis has shown that the most developed gf markets are those in Australia, the US and Canada. Characteristics of the e-demand side of these are a high number of search terms and high search volumes.

Of the search terms used in tier 1 communities, they are typically dominated by generic gluten free terms where the first 2 to 3 terms represent over 55% of the top 50 searches. This is the case in Australia, US (English speaking) and Canada (English). It is speculated that in these countries there are a significant number of celiacs who have been diagnosed for a few years. They originally searched for information on the disease and diets required and now prefer to spend more time searching for generic gluten free terms. By doing so they have found that on the supply side of things products have been amassed in the one place. This means that by searching on generic terms they can easily find large gluten free sites that contain many gluten free products on which they can search internally for specific terms. While generic searches are large, searches on the celiac group are still the second highest and account for over 15% of the top 50 searches. Within this group two terms ‘celiac’ and ‘celiac disease’ typically account for over 85% of all searches.

The next level of market maturity (tier 2) is shown by communities like US Spanish speaking and Canadian French speaking communities. These communities are often smaller than the dominant communities (often English) in their countries but they have first world affluence available to them. They often have under 100 total search terms over a twelve month average. In this example, US Spanish has 17 search terms and Canadian French have 30. The relatively high level of affluence within these communities increases the individual’s chances of being diagnosed and pursuing a often more difficult and costly gluten free diet (as compared with tier 4 markets. These ‘second tier’ communities also have a high search proportion devoted to generic gluten free terms but there is also a higher proportion of searches (than found in tier 1 markets) devoted to finding information on celiac disease such as through celiac diet and/or wheat allergy searches.

The third market maturity (tier 3) is shown by communities such as Mexican English speaking (101 searches) and Brazilian English speaking (100 searches) communities. These communities are much smaller proportions of the country population than tier 2 markets. They are often much more affluent than the main population ethnicity (through education/ employment) or having come from more affluent countries such as America. They tend to not search so much for generic gluten free terms (less than 45%) but have an increase in searches for celiac diet searches and specific food groups. This pattern is indicative of newly diagnosed people (having access to good medical attention). The other main trait of this market is that it includes people who have had the disease for a while and are now seeking specialist gluten free products such as ‘gluten free restaurants’ or ‘desserts’ – rather than staple gluten free foods such as flour or breads.

The lowest developed market (tier 4) is reflected by searches in Mexico (Spanish Speaking) 24 total searches and Brazil (Portuguese speaking) 23 searches. The communities also tend to have very low searches per head of population and may not have access to good medical facilities – often a large rural population. These people have a relatively small proportion of generic searches and a much higher number of ‘wheat free’ and ‘celiac’ searches. While they also have higher search volumes for specialty gluten free foods, rather than bread searches (main specialty in refined markets) or desserts, they tend to search for even more fundamental food staples such as flour and oatmeal. Counter intuitively they also tend to search for cakes and cookies. This is not necessarily related to the countries affluence but is more likely a social phenomenon where providing good food spreads for parties and extended family gatherings account for a large part of their social interaction.

INTRODUCTION 

Higher choice and lower prices will likely occur in tier 1 market countries as more celiacs are diagnosed and search for and buy more products. The development will reach maturity once the growth of the market goes through a point of inflexion in its growth and begins to plateau. Only long term monitoring of this demand can assess where that level of maturity approaches saturation.

The development of the market level definitions (tier structure) will be refined as more countries are analysed.

A practical application of this analysis for celiacs is to see what other celiacs are searching for and how developed the gluten free market is in their own countries. This article attempts to answer the question “what are the characteristics of a mature gluten free market”.

This research and analysis was undertaken to see if there is a correlation between gluten free search profiles of developed nations and how this may differ from countries in close proximity to the US.

A previous article on www.glutenfreepages.com.au showed a very strong correlation between gluten free search profiles of Australia and the US. In the article you are now reading, analysis was refined to include the affect of languages, internet usage, Google market share etc. Where countries use several languages, analysis was performed on English searches and the other local language.

This research was undertaken for the month of December 2008 Google search volumes for Gluten free products and uses monthly averages over a year in countries where search volatility is high and/or search volumes low. The analysis again shows a very strong correlation between the Australian and US Gluten free markets.

One of the first indictors or market maturity is considered to be the number of ‘gluten free’ related internet searches per ‘population divided by 100′. This takes into consideration that approximately 1 in 100 people (diagnosed and undiagnosed) may be celiac.

TABLE: A table showing the number of monthly searches per celiac for each community is shown in the full article.

The Adjusted GF Searches per month per celiac column takes into consideration internet usage, Google market share. The values are most accurate for the first three countries, ‘developed’ nations. These countries have a long established internet usage and Google was able to provide search terms up to its self imposed limit of 200 terms. The search values for Mexico and Brazil English speaking are likely to be inflated due to sparse information on the penetration of English language in these countries and Google’s translation abilities.

The most important concept in this research is the gluten free grouping profiles. As explained below, all gluten free terms were assigned to one of seven groups. The top 50 search terms were sorted into these groups and groups were analysed for number of terms, proportion of the top 50 and the specific terms within each group. While the following pages go into the details of each country a summary of the analysis is:

GRAPH: “Guten Free Product Search Term Group Proportions of TOP 50 terms” is shown in the full article.

Group Composition

The following shows some of the representative terms in each group.

Generic GF Product: This group of search terms all involve the word gluten and are generic in nature, such a gluten, gluten free, gluten free products, gluten free meals.

Gluten Diet: These are terms that are related to the specifics of gluten free diets such as: gluten free diets, celiac diet.

Gluten Free recipe: Terms such as gluten free recipes, gluten recipe, gluten free baking, wheat free baking

Celiac related: These are terms related to information on the disease such as: celiac disease, gluten intolerance, gluten allergies

Wheat free: Terms such as: wheat free, wheat gluten, wheat allergy

Locations: gluten free stores, gluten free shopping, gluten free restaurant

GF Specific Foods: gluten free bread, gluten free pizza, gluten free cakes, gluten free muffins

COMPARISON of Communities by their Market Tiers

Australia, US English, Canada English.

Australian, US English speaking and Canadian English groups had very similar profiles. Each country had the ‘generic gluten free’ group as its main group with the following volume proportions: AUS 65%, US Eng 64%, Canadian Eng 63%. In each case the same ‘gluten and gluten free’ generic terms rated as the top two overall searched terms by volume.

The celiac group was the second largest volume searched by all three countries: AUS (18%), US Eng (21%), Canada Eng (21%). Each category was dominated by over 85% by the terms ‘celiac’ and ‘celiac disease’. Dual spellings in Australia.

US Spanish, Canadian French

The graphs show that these communities are similar to the three above, at least in the proportion of the generic ‘gluten free products’ group.

One of the main things that affects the distribution profile of these communities is that US Spanish searches only comprised a total of 19 terms compared to US English that was capped by Google at 200. Per population of the American English V Spanish community, the English speaking community performed 4.2 times as many gluten free product searches as US Spanish speaking people on Google.

For the US Spanish community, the ‘celiac’ group was the highest volume proportion of any of the countries analysed. While the US and Australia searched for generic ‘celiac’ terms in this group the US Spanish search for ‘celiac allergies’. This suggests a possible different approach to the way each country views celiac disease.

Compared to the US English, these communities also have a stronger interest in wheat issues. While the US English searched for 3 terms in this group it only made up 4% of volumes. The US Spanish searched for only one term: ‘wheat intolerance’ and it made up 18% of total search volumes. These factors suggest the US Spanish searchers are new to celiac disease and the market is immature compared to the first three countries.

The Canadian French speaking community had a similar profile to Canadian English but a much higher interest in the ‘gluten diet’ group and slightly higher interest in GF specific foods. These terms are accounted for by them looking at the specifics of what they can eat, and specific foods of gluten free ‘oatmeal’ and ‘quinoa’. The higher interest in the diet group suggests that they are either more specialised in their searches than their English counterparts or are earlier in the disease diagnosis stage.

Mexican English / Brazilian English

In each community English is a very small minority of the population but is massively over represented in search volumes. As Google has country specific domains in each countries main language this statistic suggest that these English communities are more aware of gluten issues, are more affluent, and potentially represent a more mature search market.

There is a strong similarity between the Mexican English and Brazil English speaking group profiles. Both communities have a significantly reduced generic search focus but a similar increases in GF specific foods and Gluten Diet information. Quite a few of the English speaking people in these countries are believed to either be affluent locals or foreigners (ex pat US).

In the Mexican English speaking community, the highest searched group is ‘gf locations’ and the highest volume terms are related to gluten free restaurants. The second highest group ‘celiac’ is dominated by several equally search volume terms that use three and four word search strings. The third group ‘gf specific foods’ is dominated by searches for desserts. This suggests a split in focus between people newly diagnosed and those who are affluent enough to regularly search for gluten free restaurants and desserts.

In the ‘Brazil English’ community there was an even stronger fascination with gluten free desserts taking up three individual search terms – the first two accounting for 9% of all searches. Coelaic (UK spelling) was the second most searched group and it contained only one term which accounted for 24% of search volumes. The highest specific food searches were for cakes and muffins, whereas in US English and Australia top specific searches were for breads.

Mexican Spanish, Brazil Portuguese.

The profiles for these communities were the most unlike the US English and Australian. The table at the beginning of this article also shows that in raw terms they had one tenth the searches per head.

Mexican Spanish differs from market 1 profiles as much by its large reduction in generic searches as its large increase in searches on wheat issues. In fact three of the top ‘wheat free’ searches accounted for 44% of top 50 volumes. This suggests a community in early stages of diagnosis and discovery. The two highest specific gf food searches were for ‘oatmeal’ and ‘flour’. These non luxury items, low search volumes and focus on wheat free issues suggests a non affluent community searching for fixes to staple food groups.

Brazil Portuguese has a very large population but low search volumes. In fact it has nine times the population of Australia, but less than half the searches on gluten free products. While generic gluten searches were the main search group at 44% (20% less than US and AUS), its first two terms were still the same generic terms. Of most interest is that this community has the highest specific food group volume proportion of all countries. And rather than an interest in food staples, they focus on gluten free cakes (18% of top 50 searches), and cookies 10%. They also search for gluten free flour (3%) and oatmeal (2%).

With the third highest group being ‘wheat free’ and gluten allergies Brazil’s market resembles the split shown in Mexico (English) between learning about celiac disease and enjoying treats. However rather than searching on restaurants, the Brazilian Portuguese interest in cakes may be seen as a cultural choice (socialising and providing family spreads) rather than an opulent choice.

GRAPH: A graph on our website shows the relationship between a tier 1 community (place that is nearing market maturity) AND a high proportion that its top two searches take up of the top 50 searches AND a high number of searches per (population / 100).

MORE INFORMATION:

The development of the GFP MATRIX and market level definitions (tier structure) will be refined as more countries are analysed. The above information is a summary of the full article that can be found at www.glutenfreepages.com.au To find this article, look under the menu tab ‘Articles’, then ‘GFP Original articles’. The full report analyses each community in detail and shows graphs and statistic tables associated with each community.  

The accolades tell it all:  “I had a terrific and very inspiring time in Oaxaca. Your knowledge of the culture and region introduced us to so many interesting people, all willing to share their passion, whether it was for pottery, wood carving, frothy chocolate, the best moles or natural dyes” [Elizabeth Baird].

 

Elizabeth Baird, one of the foremost Canadian culinary icons of our time, was a participant in the May, 2010, Oaxaca Culinary Tour.  So was prolific cookbook author and columnist Rose Murray, who endorsed a copy of her seminal work, A Taste of Canada, A Culinary Journey, with similar praise: “Thank you for sharing your vast knowledge of Oaxaca with us.  We know it through your eyes.”

 

If the foregoing is any indication of the success of this most recent tour, then the thought of what’s in store for participants in future, similarly organized Oaxaca culinary events, should titillate anyone interested in Mexican gastronomy – chefs and foodies alike. 

 

While numbers were small (May is when most Americans and Canadians are content to stay close to home, stow their winter attire, and begin gardening), organizers provided the 8 – 10  participants in each of  the week’s daily activities with all that the tour promised, and more:  cooking classes with Pilar Cabrera and Susana Trilling, dining at renowned Oaxacan restaurants Casa Oaxaca, Los Danzantes, La Olla and La Catrina de Alcalá, and what impressed the most, getting out into the villages and learning the secrets of local recipes through hands-on instruction from indigenous natives – in their kitchens and over their open hearths and comals.   

 

Background to the Oaxaca Culinary Tour

 

Internationally acclaimed native Oaxacan chef Pilar Cabrera Arroyo spent the month of September, 2009, working her magic in Toronto, both as guest chef at several restaurants and invited instructor at a prominent cooking school.  It had been arranged through the efforts of Toronto food writer and researcher Mary Luz Mejia of Sizzling Communications, and several others willing to dedicate their time and effort to ensure a successful month-long event. 

 

Once the framework of the tour had been decided, Chef Pilar was invited by the Government of Mexico to represent Oaxacan cuisine at the Toronto Harbourfront Centre Hot & Spicy Food Festival’s Iron Chef competition (as it turned out, she also agreed to judge the festival’s Emerging Chef event) which took place around the same time as the tour.

 

In Toronto Chef Pilar met the likes of Elizabeth Baird (who judged the iron chef event and adjudicated alongside Pilar at the emerging chef competition), Chef Vanessa Yeung (who cooked with Pilar at the cooking school and dined with her at one of the private dinner parties), and a host of prominent food writers and critics, as well as chefs (including Chef de Cuisine Jason Bangerter of Auberge du Pommier) – most of whom had no previous exposure to Oaxacan cuisine.

 

In true Oaxacan fashion Pilar warmly and sincerely invited virtually everyone she met to come visit Oaxaca. But who would have ever thought that tour organizers would immediately begin receiving inquiries from diners at the various venues, chefs, and media personnel, about traveling to Oaxaca to gain more in-depth knowledge about Oaxaca’s longstanding reputation for culinary greatness. After all, the tour was intended to merely provide an introduction to Oaxacan cuisine.  It succeeded in whetting the appetites of Canadians, for much more.

 

Those who ultimately participated in the Oaxaca tour included aficionados of Mexican cuisine, food writers, chefs and restauranteurs.  Some booked the entire tour well in advance, while others only caught wind of the week’s events after they had planned their Oaxacan vacation, and accordingly were permitted to take part in cooking lessons, day tours and evening dining.

 

Oaxaca Culinary Tour Showcased a Variety of Food Venues and Other Dimensions of Culture

 

While a theme tour has its raison d’etre, it should not be overly restrictive in its events so as to blind participants to what else a region has to offer – and in this case the impact of other dimensions of culture upon a people’s cuisine.  In Oaxaca there is certainly a broad enough diversity of restaurants, food markets, cooking styles and levels of sophistication, to keep foodies thoroughly enthralled for weeks.   But it’s the unique and varied cultures, and the melding of New World and Old World ingredients and cooking methods, to which these tour operators also sought to expose their clients.

 

For this culinary tour, participants learned as much about availability of and regional variation in meats, cheeses and produce (and their cultural significance), as they did about staples such as moles, tlayudas, chocolate, tamales and mezcal. It was all achieved through imparting an in-depth understanding of traditions, through chatting with and learning from people at all stations of life.  At one end of the continuum were the most humble of villagers who welcomed the group into their homes, to make chocolate by pureeing roasted cacao beans, cinnamon and almonds using a primitive grinding stone (metate), and to make tamales by folding corn leaves over masa, mole amarillo and chicken.  And at the other end were the European-trained chefs who explained each dish upon its arrival at the table from their modernly equipped kitchens.

 

Oaxaca Culinary Tour Daily Events

 

One chef arrived in Oaxaca a day early, enabling her to meet with organizers in an informal setting, learning about and indulging at a Oaxaca culinary institution, Tlayudas on Libres, where locals gather between 9 p.m. and 5 a.m. for their favorite snacks grilled directly on and over charcoal:  a folded, oversized tortilla stuffed with melted Oaxacan string cheese (quesillo), bean purée, lettuce, tomato, depending on one’s sensibilities a thin layer of asiento  (pork fat); and choice of chorizo (sausage), tasajo (beef) or cecina (pork).  For ardent foodies, a tiny sample of marinated pig’s feet is required. And for the rest, a hot, corn-based drink of atole or champurrado is non-negotiable, especially during the wee hours of the morning.

 

An American doing his Masters in Nutrition arrived two days early, using the time to explore Oaxaca’s centro histórico (downtown historic center) including its quaint colonial buildings and food and craft markets.

 

Another participant stayed on a day later, after the rest has departed.  A local organizer graciously offered to chauffer her to one of Oaxaca’s rich cultural sights known as the San Agustín Center for The Arts, to see a modern ceramics exhibit housed in a spectacular lush mountain setting.  And then for last minute gift purchases he drove her to Atzompa, a village specializing in traditional Oaxacan green glazed pottery.

 

Wednesday

 

Most participants had arrived by Wednesday, late afternoon, in time for Pilar Cabrera’s walking tour of downtown Oaxaca.  This enabled group members to gain some perspective on the magic of Oaxaca and to begin planning to how they might want to spend the leisure hours built into the tour.

 

Dinner was at Oaxacan institution La Olla, Pilar’s own restaurant.  The large candlelit table on the roof of the restaurant provided a special view of Oaxaca at night.

 

[For analysis and critique of the food served at these more upscale establishments, I'll leave it to the food writers and critics on the tour who are better note-takers and possess greater objectivity and a much more refined palate than this writer.]

 

Thursday

 

The morning began with a visit to the Tlapanochestli research station, museum and teaching facility devoted to understanding cochineal (cochinilla), the tiny insect which has played an integral part in the history of Oaxaca because of its unique quality; when dried and crushed it yields a strong red dye, which with the addition of lime juice and or baking soda changes to tones of orange, pink and purple.  Of particular interest for tour participants was its application as a natural colorant for restaurant foods.  While sampling a refreshing gelatin / water / sugar based dessert colored with cochineal, our foodies had an opportunity to see familiar grocery store products dyed with the insect (Campari, Danone Yoghurt, Campbell and Knorr soups, make-up and lipstick) and briefly discussed the sensitive issue of adequacy of ingredient labeling.

 

Then off to San Bartolo Coyotepec in the comfy 18-seater van equipped with bucket seats and A/C.  Don Valente Nieto, son of the famed ceramicist Doña Rosa, provided an upbeat, informative and entertaining demonstration of the methods used by his parents and his family members today, in fashioning the well-known folk art form known as barro negro (black pottery). Tour members can now rightly claim that they saw the same demo that Don Valente provided to Jimmy Carter and Nelson Rockefeller, who’s photos alongside Doña Rosa and Don Valente grace the showroom walls.

 

The humble abode and workshop of Armando Lozano, sculptor and master jeweler of hand-made bronze necklaces, earrings and bracelets, provided the first opportunity for the group to see how most Oaxacans live, and eke out a modest existence.  The contrast between the quality workmanship of the family, and its lifestyle, was remarkable, overshadowed only by the welcoming nature of the Maestro’s daughter-in-law who offered the jewelry for sale.   

 

The final two touring stops of the day were directly devoted to food and drink.  Lunch was at the unique roadside eatery, Caldo de Piedra, where chef César prepared a tomato and herb based broth which he then poured into a large half gourd for each diner. To each he then added one’s choice of either fresh red snapper, a healthy complement of jumbo shrimp, or a combination of the two.  Red hot rocks from an open flame were then placed in each gourd, and individual meals were thusly cooked, the rocks causing the broth to boil and fish to poach.  Only large, hand-made tortillas from the comal and quesadillas amply filled with mushrooms and squash blossoms were needed to compliment the meal, of course along with large pitchers of freshly squeezed orange juice spiked with soda water (naranjadas).    

 

Oaxaca is known for its mezcal (mescal), so what better way to have an introduction to the spirit than to head to Matatlán, World Capital of Mezcal, and learn from a producer with from a five generation pedigree of palenqueros (mezcal producers).  Enrique Jiménez welcomed the tour into his parents’ traditional family compound where all witnessed the quaint and primitive production methods, and then imbibed several varieties of mezcal with chasers of lime and orange wedges, and sal de gusano (the salt, chile and ground up gusano worm mixture), together with quesillo and ricotta-like queso.  Then to the family’s brand new state-of-the-art facility where Enrique explained his new method of mezcal production. The process dramatically improves quality control while retaining the richest qualities of mezcal produced the traditional way – only smoother. 

 

Dinner at La Catrina de Alcalá provided a nice contrast to earlier events and tastings in the day, with classy Chef Juan Carlos on hand to introduce each dish.  Tour participants were so taken with the selection that towards the end of the evening when asked if they wanted to move on to dessert, or perhaps try a venison dish, almost in unison each opted for the latter.

 

Friday

 

Cooking classes by Pilar Cabrera are always highly enjoyable and educational, beginning with a visit to Mercado de La Merced for buying fresh produce, through the cooking phase, and finally indulging in the fruits of one’s labor.  The entirely of the class has been described elsewhere by me, so no more will be noted.

 

Each tour participant thereafter had a free afternoon to explore more of downtown, rest, and then dine at a recommended restaurant.

 

Saturday

 

After a relatively relaxing Friday it was back on the road for another day of touring.  At the handmade knife and cutlery workshop of Apolinar Aguilar, the group watched the master work his wonders, heating recycled metals with the aid of a primitive yet effective stone and clay oven, then forging with only a mallet striking the red-hot metal over an anvil, and finally the all-so-critical tempering stage.

 

Knife blades are polished to a brilliant shine without lacquer or nickel.  Purchasers on this day had an opportunity to have inscriptions engraved on the blades of knives they purchased.  In anticipation of the culinary tour, Apolinar had prepared a selection of paring knives, a turkey carving set, a cake cutting ensemble, and bread knives.  In addition to the more traditional Bowie hunting knives, swords and machetes, he also had on hand more unusual collector pieces such as knives with deer antler handles and letter openers with blade undulations of the Indonesian genre. 

 

In the tiny village of San Antonino participants were provided with an opportunity to select from the finest imaginable hand-embroidered blouses and dresses – cotton, silk, and blends.

 

Lunch was in the rustic homestead of the Navarro family, the sisters and mother known for weaving fine cotton textiles on the back strap loom, and brother Gerardo for his watercolors.  But the main reason for stopping in Santo Tomás Jalieza was to dine with the family in their Eden-like surroundings, and witness their preparation of tasajo on a small hibachi-style grill, and all the steps required to make sopa de guias, a broth made of all the parts of the zucchini plant, and a small piece of corn for added starch.  The welcoming nature and all-round hospitality of the family was as impressive as their simple yet immaculately kept rural home and grounds.

 

The tour day concluded with a visit to the workshop of Jacobo Angeles, master carver and painter of alebrijes, for a demonstration (the particulars and details of which are once again available online as part of a lengthy dissertation about woodcarving in Oaxaca).  However what tourists to the region never get to experience, and what Jacobo had arranged for the group, was a lesson in making aguas frescas of limón and jamaica (hibiscus flower), and the pre-Hispanic drink tejate, known as the “drink-of-the-gods.”

 

After a late afternoon rest back at Las Bugambilias Bed & Breakfast, the group welcomed the leisurely evening walk to Casa Oaxaca, purportedly the best high end restaurant in Oaxaca.  Unfortunately on this night chef / owner Alejandro Ruíz was somewhat preoccupied entertaining a group of visiting chefs from diverse Latin American cities, so in this writer’s opinion the experience was somewhat disappointing.  Word has it that for the next culinary tour the organizers might pass on Casa Oaxaca unless an acknowledgement of the shortcomings and an assurance of better next time are both forthcoming.  Each and every participant in a culinary tour of Oaxaca should expect and receive nothing but the best, of course subject to unforeseen circumstances.

 

Sunday

 

The penultimate day of the Oaxaca Culinary Tour provided the broadest diversity of experiences imaginable.  The group began at the rug making village of Teotitlán del Valle, but not merely for a weaving and dying demonstration.  Rocio Mendoza, one of the daughters-in-law of Casa Santiago owners Don Porfirio and Doña Gloria, with her unwavering warmth and comforting smile welcomed the tour group into the extended family household for a lesson in the traditional methods of making both hot chocolate and tamales de amarillo, the ritual dish served at certain town fiestas. 

 

Both the women and men of the household were present to answer questions and help out. Tour group members to a number were made to feel more welcomed than one could think possible. Each had a chance to take over the task of grinding toasted cacao beans into a hot velvety paste.  Matriarch Gloria gave a hands-on lesson on all the steps required to prepare her special tamales, assisting each participant in learning how to place and fold ingredients into a corn leaf, and then ever so carefully stack the batch of tamales into a steaming hot clay container (tamalero) heated over firewood.  Once all was cooked, and after a traditional “salud” over small glasses of mezcal, each indulged in the fruits of his or her labor with members of the Santiago family:  hot chocolate with sweet rolls on the side for dipping, and a plateful of piping hot tangy tamales de amarillo.  Goodbyes were particularly difficult after the establishment of relationships based upon a commonality of purpose – the mentoring and learning about culinary traditions in Teotitlán del Valle.

 

Two hours in the Sunday Tlacolula market is pretty well required when a group of food enthusiasts is involved; especially when organizers have special relationships with vendors so as to enable tourists to ask questions and take photographs at will.  What Pilar did not cover in her Oaxaca market tour leading up to her class, the organizers ensured was explained in detail in the course of the visit to Tlacolula.  Traditional market drinks of chilacayota and pulque were sampled.  Members purchased decorative gourds, wooden spoons, embroidered aprons and colorful table coverings, and of course chiles to take back home.  The aroma of chicken grilling on open flames and steaming caldrons of barbequed mutton and goat teased.  The pageantry of Zapotec women in their native village dress going about their business buying, selling and trading, impressed all.  And the ability of group members to have all their questions answered, sample foodstuffs and drinks without trepidation, take their fill of photos, and wander freely while soaking it all up, provided one of many trip highlights.

 

The quaint open-air eatery known as El Tigre was a stark contrast to the earlier market scene, but just as welcome, in the nature of a well deserved respite. Each member of the group was able to question comedor owner Sara about salsa preparation, the disinfecting of fresh produce, and cooking techniques and challenges where every menu item is prepared fresh, over a flame on the grill or comal.  Once again, a review of El Tigre is available online. The eatery was selected so as to advance one of the organizers’ goals of ensuring as diverse a culinary experience as possible.

 

The tour day concluded with a visit to the picturesque mountain setting known as Hierve el Agua.  The site consists of mineral deposit “water falls,” and bubbling calcium and magnesium-rich springs feeding two pools of water suitable for a safe, refreshing swim. Most took the opportunity to cool off – and perhaps reap the benefit of the legendary curative properties of the water – while others were content to sit in the shade, chat about the day’s events, and of course take photos. 

 

After the filling breakfast at Las Bugambilias, then hot chocolate with sweet rolls and tamales at Casa Santiago, followed by drink samplings in Tlacolula, and lunch at El Tigre, botanas (appetizer plates) and drinks were the order of the evening, at Los Danzantes, without any doubt the Oaxaca restaurant with the best ambiance by a long shot.

 

Monday

 

No visit to Oaxaca, be it for a culinary tour or otherwise, would be complete without a guided tour of the most important and magestic pre-Hispanic ruin in all of the State of  Oaxaca, the 2,000-year-old Zapotec site known as Monte Albán.  After a brief sit-down and opportunity to quench the thirst, tour participants were shuttled to Susana Trilling’s cooking school to make mole chichilo.  Once again, Ms. Trilling’s class has been noted elsewhere by the writer. 

 

Group members were welcomed to conclude their visit to Oaxaca by gathering at an event hall that evening to view a folkloric celebration of Oaxaca’s diversity of dance and music traditions known as the Guelaguetza.  But to a number each decided to pass on the idea after such a full itinerary.  Instead, they welcomed the chance to finish the tour in a much more casual and relaxed setting, over drinks and conversation at the hillside home of one of the tour organizers, sitting on the open terrace and reliving the week’s events with the fond memories.

 

Future Culinary Tours in Oaxaca

 

Culinary vacations in Oaxaca have been done before, and will no doubt continue into the distant future.  This tour format, however, was unique for its diversity of experiences and the care taken by organizers to ensure that the expectations of all participants – seasoned chefs, media personnel specializing in the culinary arts and gastronomy, and aficionados of Mexican cuisine – were met, or better yet exceeded. 

 

If the current spate of commentaries regarding the success of the tour and level of participant satisfaction is an accurate gauge, then no doubt there will be future tours, perhaps on a bi-annual basis, with each succeeding Oaxaca Culinary Tour improving on the performance of the previous.

 

Information on future culinary tours in Oaxaca can be obtained by contacting Mary Luz Mejia of Sizzling Communications, or this writer. 

Amazing geographic location, excellent infrastructure and perfect commercial areas are some of the things that you’d come across while visiting beautiful city of Celaya. Large numbers of drivers from Canada visit the city every year as they can easily commute to major cities such as Queretaro, Morelia and San Miguel de Allende from the city. There are various beautiful architectural structures all over the city and cobblestone streets give you a feel of colonial city. You can explore through the arts and history of the city in its museums. There are several attractions in the city so you should drive in your own vehicle so you don’t need to face any kind of delays. But before you start driving in Mexico you should obtain Mexican auto Insurance Online for trouble free Mexican trip.

Celaya Mexico – This Small City Contains So Much travel ideas come with a reminder to purchase Mexican Automobile Insurance before your travel begins. Driving within Mexico is not that big a deal, but car accidents without Mexican insurance coverage sure can be. Mexican Insurance Online is the least expensive option with the most reliable coverage, making sure your vacation dollars go farther. Compare Car Insurance for Mexico programs carefully Look for coverage that allows you to repair in US and Canada, will take the claim into the United States to finalize and has car rental. On the best websites you can buy policies on demand and print your Mexico Auto Insurance policy immediately after purchase.

While spending your vacation in Celaya, you should not miss out visiting charismatic park La Alameda which was built in 19th century. Canadian wanderers visit the park to enjoy few moments of peace and relaxation. While walking through the alleys of the parks fenced by lush green tress, you will come across numerous food vendors. This is the place where you can taste home made ice cream prepared in traditional manner using a hand cranked freezer. You would love the view of the park while having coffee in the coffee shops having open air terraces.

While spending your vacation in Celaya, taste the nationally famous Mexican Dessert Cajeta. After tasting the delicious dessert, you can explore through the captivating architecture in the city. You can start your exploration from four centuries old building La Casa del Diezmo. Canadian architecture lovers always praise the beautiful baroque style architecture of the building. You can also get a closer look of the city’s culture as the building hosts several cultural events. A small museum is another attraction of the building.

Do you know the secret of mummies? If you want to see mummies you don’t need to go to Egypt, just visit the Museo de Momias in the city of Celaya. You can get a closer look of more than 20 mummies that have been preserved in the museum. You will also get an opportunity to take a look of famous graves of cemetery. Celaya Mexico – This Small City Contains So Much!

Mexican desserts aren’t the first thing that leap to mind when thinking of Mexican cuisine, but I must confess they are my favorite.

Here’s a few recipes that should convince even the hardest skeptic.

- Crema Catalana

An import from the Catalan area of Spain, this creamy dessert is easy to prepare and even easier to eat.

Ingredients:
4 egg yolks
2 cups of milk
5 oz of granulated sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1 lemon rind
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp cornstarch

Grab a saucepan and pour in the milk, then add the lemon rind, vanilla extract and cinnamon. Bring to a boil and simmer for a few minutes.

Whisk the egg yolks vigorously, pouring in the cornstarch and five ounces of sugar. Keep it up until the mixture is thick. Then pour it over the milk, stirring well.

Heat to thicken, then allow to cool. Refrigerate for a few hours, then devour!

- Ensaimadas

This sweet bread recipe is my favorite and will have everyone begging for more.

Ingredients:
2 large eggs
8 fl. oz of milk
4 oz of sugar
16 oz of all-purpose flour
6 oz butter
2 tbsp olive oil
4 tsp dry yeast
1 tsp salt

Warm the milk and dissolve the yeast in it. Then blend sugar, salt and flour and add to the milk. Blend with a mixer about two minutes until smooth. Add in the eggs, then pour in the olive oil and blend well. Knead the dough until all the ingredients are well mixed.

Cover with a damp towel and let the dough rise for about an hour. Knead again, then roll the dough out on a bread board with a rolling pin. Brush with butter and roll up the dough, then leave it for another hour. Coil the roll and bake at 375F/190C for 45 minutes. MMM MMMM.

- Leche Frita

Few cultures would be adventurous enough to call a recipe ‘fried milk’, especially since it’s made by boiling and frying. But that’s the foundation for this irresistible treat. Great desserts don’t come any easier than this one.

Ingredients:
2 eggs
32 fl. oz milk
4 oz sugar
6 fl. oz olive oil
1 tsp sunflower oil
4 oz cornflour
1 cinnamon stick

Bring the milk to a boil and add cornflour and sugar, then add the cinnamon stick and continue for ten minutes more. Stir frequently.

Then, pour the mixture into a tray and allow to cool to room temperature. As it cools it will thicken. Slice the result into squares about two inches on a side. Coat the results with egg and fry on medium heat. Milk never tasted so good.

- Torrijas

This fried bread dessert is another sweet favorite for lovers of Mexican cuisine.

Ingredients:
8 eggs
32 fl. oz of milk
16 oz of honey
16 oz of sugar
1 loaf wheat bread

Slice an uncut loaf of wheat bread into thick slices. Whisk the eggs well. Add sugar into the eggs and blend. Dip the bread slices into the mixture, coating them well. Fry them to a crisp, golden brown and top with honey. Unbeatable.

Mexican desserts are some of the best I have ever tasted, sweet and mouth watering… I just can’t get enough.

If any of these recipes caught your taste buds, then I highly recommend you check out: The Best of Mexico: A Cookbook

Rick Bayless’ Mexico State Dinner MENU (PHOTOS)
Mrs. Obama worked with Guest Chef Rick Bayless and White House Executive Chef Cristeta Comerford to create a menu that reflects the best of American cuisine, continuing this White House’s commitment to serving fresh, sustainable and regional food, and honoring the culinary excellence and flavors that are present in Mexican cuisine.

Read more on The Huffington Post

Café Kumquat recognized in New Mexico Magazine’s Best Eats issue
SILVER CITY – A Silver City restaurant, The Cafe at the Kumquat, in The Curious Kumquat, has been featured in New Mexico Magazine s Best Eats edition.

Read more on Silver City Sun-News